How To Fix Problems in PC crashes

Here are some useful tips on How to fix common problems in PC.

Your computer slows down, and part of the screen goes either black or white. This usually means that you’re using too many applications or programs all at once, and your computer can’t handle it. Try pressing ctrl+alt+delete, and look for the program that giving you trouble (usually labeled “not responding”), then try closing the said application by clicking end task. And if your computer is still in the line age of the dinosaur, try not to do all things at once. You might end up with less than you want to gain. Also, this may mean that your 20 years old version computer needs some upgrading like increase of RAM, or better yet, a new computer.

You removed some files or programs from your PC, and the next time you boot up, it won’t.
All computer operating systems (OS) have their own standard files and applications that will render the computer inoperable if you remove them. It safe to say that in windows, whatever was installed in your PC should not be removed, because windows will look for it when you boot up again. Also don’t simply delete programs that look unnecessary or uninstall them. When you boot up, windows system files look for programs that have been installed, so whether you remove the program manually or accidentally, you’re bound to get in trouble.

You installed a new hardware and software, and get a fatal exception error (or something like that). That’s what you called “Blue Screen of Death”. You might have installed something that is incompatible with your OS, it might be a new sound card, RAM, device driver, software. Try to remove that hardware that you installed or download the latest software updates for that particular hardware. Also pieces of advice, if you are unsure about installing something, try to find someone who knows better.

Why doesn’t my PC shut down, why is it so slow? When about to shut down your PC, allow a few minutes for some rest time. Illegal shutdowns can result in more permanent damage to your files or worst to your PC as well. The system might still be resolving something, maybe like cleaning up temporary files or folders, reallocating memory. This will help prevent from crashes. Try to backup your files on another media, like CD, DVD, or another hard disk. When your system fails, you can still restore your files.

Increase the Battery Life of your Laptop

One of the biggest advantages of using a laptop is the ability to save energy. Since that we always use our laptop it also drain more power because of its constant use. Because your laptop has a battery that can last over an hour you can carry wherever you wanted to. But how can you save energy if your laptop remains to your wall outlet because it cannot last longer than an hour? Here are several tips on how to increase the battery life of your Laptop.

1. Darken the screen: Your laptop screen is found to be the most power-hungry component in your laptop. Your laptop screen needs high amount of battery power to maintain its clear and luminous display. To preserve this power you can adjust it’s brightness to a low level. Just good enough to our eyes.
2. Modify the power settings: Windows Vista powered laptop comes with several outstanding power features. It can help you get the most proficient performance when your laptop is plugged and optimize its life when it’s on the move.
3. Turn off Wi-Fi: Wi-Fi (Wireless Fidelity) is among the greatest battery power eater. It weakens your laptop’s battery from perpetually absorbing power from the battery even if you’re not online. If you are using your laptop outside from the wireless network it is more advisable to just turn off your Wi-Fi to save some power. If your laptop doesn’t have a function button to switch on or off your wireless adapter you can just go to control panel, access the Network Connections and disable it from there.
4. Switch off peripheral devices: USB sticks, mouse and web cams are the primary offenders in sucking out your batteries life. Utilizing USB devices also contributes in draining your laptop’s power, disconnecting it when not in use, ejecting your devices as soon as possible and switching off your laptop’s inbuilt webcam can help conserve your laptop’s precious power.
5. Invest in some computer hardware: Usually laptops come with a six cell-battery, but a lot of makers today already provides eight or even 12-cell elective upgrades, which will definitely double your power. If you can afford it then why not invest more, in the long run you will be surprise on how much energy and money you save just by investing on the right piece.

Increasing the Battery Life of a Laptop

One of the biggest advantages of using a laptop is the ability to save energy. Because your laptop has a battery that can last over an hour you can carry wherever you wanted to. But how can you save energy if your laptop remains to your wall outlet because it cannot last longer than an hour? Here’s how to increase battery life.

1. Darken the screen: Your laptop screen is found to be the most power-hungry component in your laptop. Your laptop screen needs high amount of battery power to maintain its clear and luminous display. To preserve this power you can adjust it’s brightness to a low level. Just good enough to our eyes.
2. Modify the power settings: Windows Vista powered laptop comes with several outstanding power features. It can help you get the most proficient performance when your laptop is plugged and optimize its life when it’s on the move.
3. Turn off Wi-Fi: Wi-Fi (Wireless Fidelity) is among the greatest battery power eater. It weakens your laptop’s battery from perpetually absorbing power from the battery even if you’re not online. If you are using your laptop outside from the wireless network it is more advisable to just turn off your Wi-Fi to save some power. If your laptop doesn’t have a function button to switch on or off your wireless adapter you can just go to control panel, access the Network Connections and disable it from there.
4. Switch off removable devices: USB sticks, mouse and webcams are the primary offenders in sucking out your batteries life. Utilizing USB devices also contributes in draining your laptop’s power, disconnecting it when not in use, ejecting your devices as soon as possible and switching off your laptop’s inbuilt webcam can help conserve your laptop’s precious power.
5. Invest in new brand of battery: Usually laptops come with a six cell-battery, but a lot of makers today already provides eight or even 12-cell elective upgrades, which will definitely double your power. If you can afford it then why not invest more, in the long run you will be surprise on how much energy and money you save just by investing on the right piece.
6. Disable features: Windows Vista has got new features, but most of them prove to be needless by an ordinary user or even to some expert users. One good example is the Windows Aero, switching it off not only it will help you save a small amount of power but it will also make your laptop more proficient.

How to add memory to a Laptop Computer

This article walks you through adding memory to your laptop computer. Adding memory to your laptop is a very simple process and it takes about 10-15 minutes. See also How to choose the right memory for your system.

First steps:
Discharge your self to avoid any electro static charges in your body. Locate the memory cover located on the bottom of the laptop. The first thing we need to do is turn off your laptop. Once it is completely off you will need to locate the cover for the memory compartment on the bottom of your laptop. The memory cover will be a square area with one or more screws to attach a cover to the bottom of your laptop. There are usually several compartments located on the bottom of laptop computers, some labeled and some not. Generally the cover for memory is square and 3 or 4 inches long/wide.

Second steps:
Once you have located the cover of the laptop memory you will need to remove it by using a small Phillips screwdriver. After the screws are removed the cover generally pops off or swings upward depending on the model of laptop. Once you have removed the cover you will see one or more memory chips. Laptops generally have two slots for memory chips.

Third steps:
Memory retaining lever now that we have located the laptop memory and removed the cover it is time to add the memory. If both memory slots are full you may need to remove one or both memory chips to put in your new memory depending on how much memory you purchased and the size. To remove the memory from the computer you will need to locate the release levers generally located on each side of memory. You will need to gently pull the lever away from the side of the memory to release it. Once the levers are release you will be able to gently pull the memory out of the socket.

Fourth Steps:
Now that we have removed the memory we can now add the new memory to your laptop computer. To do this you will want to slide the new memory into the socket where the old memory was removed or the socket that was empty. You will need to be careful during this process as the memory only fits one way. Never force the memory into the slot. Once you have the memory in the socket you will need to gently press down toward the bottom of the laptop in order to secure the holding levers around the sides of the new memory. Now attach the memory compartment cover and start your computer.

What are the different parts of the Keyboard

The keyboard is the common data entry device in a computer system. It is also called the Standard Input Device. You should also note that it is the slowest of all the input devices to use. It works with the very low current to send electrical impulses to the CPU when you press a key. Because the low current there is very little risk of electric shock from a keyboard and safety precautions are not necessary when using one.

A typical keyboard is divided into 5 regions:

1. The Qwerty keyboard – This is the part of the keyboard that is used the most and gets its name from the first six letters of the top rows of the keys i.e. “Q, W, E, R, T, Y”. Note that this is only the case in the UK – other countries such as France have different key combinations reflecting their different use of letters. The layout of the keys was originally devised to actually slow typist down as the early typewriters were prone to getting jammed if the keys were hit too quickly. The average speed of a trained typist on a qwerty keyboard. Such as the shown above is up to six character per second.
2. The Function keys – this part of the keyboard is situated above the qwerty keyboard. These keys are given the symbols F1 to F12 and are really shortcut keys to operate actions in programs or in the computer’s memory system. For example, pressing the F4 key might be a shortcut to saving a document to disk in a common word processing package.
3. Editing keys – this part of the keyboard is situated to the right of the qwerty keyboard and is used to edit text or data in common programs. The edit keys are also used to move around the document (Page up or Page down) or go to the start (by depressing the Home key) or end (by depressing the end key).
4. The Cursor Control Keys – These keys represent a quick way to move the cursor (in. for example, a word processing program) and are often quicker to use than the mouse. They are not recommended for moving the cursor over large distances. Here the home, end or page up and page down keys should be used.
5. The Numeric Keyboard – this part of the keyboard is used mainly by the people in the financial services to enter large amounts of numerical data. The keys are duplicates of those above the Qwerty keyboard but are the positioned on the extreme right of the keyboard for ease of use with one hand.

How to Choose the Right Memory for Your System

Adding RAM to your PC usually delivers the most speed for your system, but only if you buy the right kind of memory module for your PC. There are more types of PC RAM. Do you want SDRAM, PC100, nonparity, or unbuffered DIMM? Why not enjoy a refreshing DDR SDRAM, PC2700, CL2.5, or registered DIMM? Here are the ins and outs of PC memory. Begin by checking your system's user manual to identify the types of RAM your PC's motherboard supports. If you don't have the manual, visit the manufacturer's Web site and search for downloadable manuals or other tools that might help you find the information you need for identifying the right RAM for your PC. Enter the make and model of your PC or motherboard to generate a list of compatible RAM types.

Before you buy consider the following:
Maximum module size: Find out the maximum size of memory module that your PC supports. Don't buy a module larger than what your motherboard's memory slots can each accommodate.
RAM and connector types: Determine which of the four types of RAM your system uses: DRAM (EDO or FPM), SDRAM, DDR SDRAM, or RDRAM. All four types are mounted on one of three module types: SIMM, DIMM, or RIMM.
Most machines support only one type of RAM and have one type of module or connector, so mixing types isn't an option. The few motherboards that do accept two types of RAM allow only a single type to be used at any one time.
Memory speed: SDRAM, DDR SDRAM, and RDRAM are rated to match or exceed the PC's frontside bus speed (FSB), which is the speed at which data moves between the CPU and RAM. If your system comes with PC66 SDRAM, you can use PC100 SDRAM to replace it and get the faster speed, as long as your PC's frontside bus supports the higher rate. But if you mix RAM of different speeds, all RAM will operate at the speed of the slowest chip.
Memory banks: On some PCs, the memory slot closest to the CPU--usually called bank 0--must be filled before the motherboard's other memory slots. On other systems, bank 0 must have the largest RAM module (if you are using modules of different sizes). There's no fixed rule, so check your PC's documentation.
Column address strobe: The lower the CAS rating--or the CL rating--is, the better. SDRAM comes in CL2 or CL3 types, and DDR SDRAM comes in CL2 or CL2.5. Unless your motherboard requires a specific CAS or CL rating, get the lower (faster) rated module. Cost differences should be negligible. Again, if you mix modules of different speeds, they'll all operate at the slowest module's speed.

By: Techlabcapiz and Hectic Capiznon Bloggers 2009

How to add RAM for a faster PC

First, what is RAM? RAM is called as Random Access Memory. Speeding up your computer's memory remains one of the most popular upgrade to do. It's inexpensive, it's relatively easy, and it can dramatically improve performance of your PC. And today's memory-hungry software can make upgrading your PC's RAM a virtual necessity. For example, Microsoft XP recommends at least 128MB of memory; 256MB is better, however, and 512MB is better still. Now here a step by step procedure on how to add RAM for your system.

1. Place your computer's power switch in the off position and disconnect the AC power cord.
2. Follow the instructions in your owner's manual that describe how to locate your computer's memory expansion sockets.
3. Before touching any electronic components or opening the package containing your new module(s), discharge yourself first by touching an unpainted, grounded metal object to discharge any electrostatic electricity you may have stored on your body or clothing.
4. Handle your new module(s) with care; do not flex or bend the module(s). Always grasp the module by its edges.
5. The module and the expansion socket are keyed. A small plastic bridge in the socket must align with the curved notch in the module. The bridge ensures the module can only be plugged into the socket one way.
6. Insert the module into the socket at a slight angle. Make sure the module is completely seated in the socket. If you're having problems inserting the module into the socket, stop and examine both the module and the socket; make sure the notch in the module is properly aligned with the keyed plastic bridge in the socket. Do not force the module into the socket. If too much force is used, both the socket and module could be damaged.
7. Once you are satisfied the module is seated properly in the socket, rotate the module upward until the clips at each end of the expansion socket click into place.
8. 
   After all modules have been installed, reinstall any other cables that may have been disconnected during the installation process. close the computer, plug in the AC power cord, and turn on the computer to see if the new memory has been installed correctly or if you see a memory check during POST (Power On Self Test) in the BIOS.

By: Techlabcapiz and Hectic Capiznon BLoggers 2009

How to know a drive is about to fail

As reliable as hard drives have become, they still have a finite lifespan. While regular backups and RAID technology can help you prevent data loss when a hard disk drive fails, it's better to catch the problem early and replace the hard disk drive on your schedule, rather than when it decides to fail.
Ironically, improvements in hard drive technology have caused some of the symptoms of impending failure to disappear. For instance, hard disk drive and controller designs now can hide the intermittent read/write failures that once foretold a hard disk drive going bad. Likewise, today's hard disk drives are virtually silent, which eliminates the changes in sound that used to alert IT personnel that a drive was going. Bearing failures, which used to be one of the most common causes of drive failure, are much less common today.

However, hard disk drives can still give off signs that they are about to fail. Including:
1. Disk takes a long time to come up. A hard disk drive that takes a long time to boot up is working hard. Maybe it's working hard because a lot of stuff needs to be initialized. But it could also be trying to compensate for intermittent read/write failures.
2. CHKDSK shows bad sectors. Bad sectors used to be a fact of life. Not any more. These days, any bad sectors showing up with chkdsk or similar disk test utilities usually mean the disk is going away. This is doubly true if the number of bad sectors is increasing, even very slowly.
3. Running hot. All drives get warm, but if the hard disk drive itself is running unusually hot compared to others in the enclosure, it is probably nearly the end of its useful life.
4. Consider the drive's history. A hard disk drive that has been dropped onto a hard surface (running or not) or else has overheated should be regarded with suspicion. It's a good candidate for failure. Overheating usually occurs when an enclosure's main fan or fans fail, allowing temperature to build up. If the system gets hot enough that you start getting read-write errors before the problem is spotted and fixed, there's a good chance the lifespan of the drives has been drastically shortened.
5. Drive LEDs that never go off. There's no relationship between overt computer activity and hard disk drive activity, as indicated by the drive LED. But if the LED used to come on intermittently and now glows constantly, something is very wrong and is probably going to get worse.
6. Disk cannot locate file table. If the disk can't find the Windows Master File Table (MFT), especially after an unexplained crash, the disk is almost certainly dying.

By: Techlabcapiz

How to know your motherboard are dying

How will you now that your motherboard is dying? This has happened to me twice now. First time it was the BIOS chip that had failed on me. The board refused to get past the "verifying dmi pool data" message. New board on that one. Second time around it was the CPU overheating. If you don't mind playing with the hardware and you have some sort of speaker on the motherboard then try the following suggestions: Remove ALL of the pci cards, the ram modules and the mouse (yes, the mouse as well) and bare-boot the board. (If you are using a separate graphics card then unplug that too for the moment). If you have a speaker connected to the board then when you try and boot you will hear a long series of continuous beeps (See PC Boot Problems), which means that the board is trying to tell you that you have no ram installed. This is good because it means that the board's BIOS chip and the CPU are working just fine at this point.If you hear nothing then it's time to either try another CPU or to change the board. Game over...If you get past this point then switch off and plug the ram back in, and then try a re-boot. If you have more than one module then switch off and try each one separately before booting. If the problem is the ram then this will soon show up. If you get to this point then you should hear a different set of beeps (usually one long and three short). This means the board is looking for a graphics card.Now switch off, plug in the graphics card (if it is off-board) and try booting again. If you get a hang-up this time then you have a graphics card problem. If all is ok at this point then you can turn off the pc, replace each pci card one-by-one and try booting every time you plug one in. If the problem is with one of the cards then this will soon show up. I suspect you may fall over at one of the first two options, which means either board or CPU.

Note: not everyone knows how to tweak and configure a PC. So if you’re one of them, don’t try to experiment because it will do more damage to your system or other components. But if you got lucky, then that’s good. If you’re not sure of what you are doing on how to troubleshoot your own PC try to look for a Computer Technician because he/she knows what to do.

By:TechlabCapiz

How to Choose a Sound Card

If you want to add a sound card to your computer, or upgrade the sound card that it already has, you have several options
1. An MP3 card: If you’re an MP3 wizard with a hard drive’s worth of MP3 digital audio files, you’ll appreciate one of these specialized audio cards. An MP3 card contains a hardware encoder/decoder, which speeds up your PC’s ripping (the process of creating MP3 digital audio files from existing audio CDs) and MP3-playing performance.
2. A 24-bit card: For the absolute best in audio reproduction, go for 24-bit audio (that’s 192 KHz, for you audio heads), which is far superior to the sound produced by virtually all audio CD players. These cards can also support DVD audio, feature front-panel controls that fit in an open drive bay, and carry a built-in FireWire port — which is just the whipped cream and cherry on the sundae.
3. A surround sound card: These cards are specifically designed for 3D environmental audio within games and for full Dolby surround sound support when you watch DVD movies on your PC. Naturally, you need more than two mundane speakers from a discount store to enjoy the full effect — which is why a premium set of speakers is usually included with these cards.

How to Install a new Video Card

Installing a video card is a little bit easy. Just follow these instructions on how to install a new video card. If you’re really not sure if you can do it then you have to look for someone (like a Computer Technician) who knew how to install a video card. The first thing you should consider is choose something that fits your needs. As with the other components it is important to get something that fits your needs. So you need to decide up front what you want from your final computer. Is it a media PC, an office type PC, something as cheap as possible or a high spec gaming PC? Whichever of these it is, will mean different aspects will be more important to you, but generally the faster the better. Determine the slots of you’re video card on your motherboard. Is it PCIe? AGP? PCI? Or ISA (for old model of mainboards). Now here are some instructions on how to install a new video card.

Shut down the computer. Disconnect all peripherals from the computer. Remove the cover of the chassis. Discharge your self first by putting your both hands on the chasses. Otherwise, put on a grounding strap if you have one and follow its instructions. Remove the computer's back panel if necessary. Knock out or unscrew the metal plate on slot holder on the computer's back panel. Remove old video card gently. If your video card is an AGP (Accelerated Graphics Port) insert the video card gently but firmly into an AGP slot. Or, if you’re using a PCIe (Peripheral Component Interconnect Express) video card insert the video card gently but firmly into an available PCIe slot. Don't touch any connectors on the card. Rock it into position if necessary, but don't force it. Screw the video card into the slot holder if it has a screw hole. Reconnect the monitor, keyboard, and mouse. Reboot the computer. If your monitor displays properly, the card is working. If you here some beeps and no display on screen (see also Beep Codes). Turn off the computer, unplug all connections. Unscrew and remove the video card again and put it back gently. Reboot the computer. If it is now working then proceed to windows. Insert the video card driver CD onto the CD/DVD Rom drive and follow onscreen instructions to install driver and additional software. If Windows doesn't prompt you, manually complete the installation using the Add New Hardware control panel. After the installation of video card driver is complete. Reboot the computer.

How to make a Network Cable

The steps below are general Ethernet Category 5 (commonly known as Cat5) cable construction guidelines. In this example, we will be making a Category 5 cable, but the same general method will work for making any category of network cables.

Step1:
Unroll the required length of network cable and add a little extra, just in case. If a boot is to be fitted, do so before stripping away the sleeve and ensure the boot faces the correct way.
Step 2:
Carefully remove the outer jacket of the cable, exposing about 1 1/5 inch of the twisted pairs. Be careful when stripping the jacket as to not nick or cut the internal wiring. After removing the outer case, you will notice 8 wires twisted in 4 pairs. Each pair will have one wire of a certain color and another wire that is white with a colored stripe matching its partner (this wire is called a tracer). Sometimes a rip cord (white thread) is also present.
Step 3:
Untwist the pairs so they will lay flat between your fingers. The white piece of thread can be cut off even with the jacket and disposed. For easier handling, cut the wires so that they are 3/4" (19 mm) long from the base of the jacket.
Step 4:
Arrange the wires based on the wiring specifications you are following. There are two methods set by the TIA 568A and 568B. Which one you use will depend on what is being connected. A straight-through cable is used to connect two different-layer devices (e.g. a hub and a PC). Two like devices normally require a cross-over cable. The difference between the two is that a straight-through cable has both ends wired identically, while a cross-over cable has one end wired 568A and the other end wired 568B. For our demonstration in the following steps, we will use 568B, but the instructions can easily be adapted to 568A.

568B - Put the wires in the following order, from left to right:
White orange/ orange/ white green/ blue/ white blue/ green/ white brown/ brown

568A - Put the wires in the following order, from left to right:
White green/ green/ white orange/ blue/ white blue/ orange/ white brown/ brown

Step 5:
Press all the wires flat and parallel between your thumb and forefinger. Verify the colors have remained in the correct order. Cut the top of the wires even with one another so that they are 1/2" (12.5 mm) long from the base of the jacket, as the jacket needs to go into the 8P8C connector by about 1/8", meaning that you only have a 1/2" of room for the individual cables. Leaving more than 1/2" untwisted can jeopardize connectivity and quality. Ensure that the cut leaves the wires even and clean; failure to do so may cause the wire not to make contact inside the jack and could lead to wrongly guided cores inside the plug.
Step 6:
Keep the wires flat and in order as you push them into the RJ-45 plug with the flat surface of the plug on top. The white/orange wire should be on the left if you're looking down at the jack. You can tell if all the wires made it into the jack and maintain their positions by looking head-on at the plug. You should be able to see a wire located in each hole, as seen at the bottom right. You may have to use a little effort to push the pairs firmly into the plug. The cabling jacket should also enter the rear of the jack about 1/4" (6 mm) to help secure the cable once the plug is crimped. You may need to stretch the sleeve to the proper length. Verify that the sequence is still correct before crimping.

Step 7:
Place the wired plug into the crimping tool. Give the handle a firm squeeze. You should hear a ratcheting noise as you continue. Once you have completed the crimp, the handle will reset to the open position. To ensure all pins are set, some prefer to double-crimp by repeating this step.
Step 8:
Repeat all of the above steps with the other end of the cable. The way you wire the other end (568A or 568B) will depend on whether you're making a straight-through, rollover, or cross-over cable. Test the cable to ensure that it will function in the field. In addition, with power-over-Ethernet (PoE) making its way into the market place, crossed wire pairs could lead to physical damage of computers or phone system equipment, making it even more crucial that the pairs are in the correct order. A simple cable tester can quickly verify that information for you. Should you not have a network cable tester on hand, simply test connectivity pin to pin.

See also Wiring Code for 10BaseT/ 100BaseT Cable

How to add a second hard drive

The questions most ask by people are how do I add a second hard drive to my computer? I bet you've been using your computer lately to store MP3 files, downloaded movies or videos, high resolution images, or to play games. Right?

These days, anything less than 40 gigabytes of storage just isn't enough, so it may make a lot of sense to add a second hard drive to your computer. There are two possible ways to expand your computer's data capacity. One is to replace your current hard drive with a newer larger one, and the other is to simply add a second drive to accompany the first. Before you decide which option to pursue, consider the following.
Is your computer capable of supporting a second drive (sometimes called a "slave" drive)? If you have an older system with only one IDE channel (a connector inside your computer to add internal IDE parts to you motherboard), your existing hard disk and CD-ROM may already take up that connector. There goes your further expansion plan.
If you've never so much as opened up your computer's case, perhaps you might want to let someone slightly more experienced help you with this. If you're keen to try and want to go ahead and add a second drive on your own, here are some straightforward steps to follow to get the system up and running.

1. First, you're going to need a new hard drive, such as Seagate, Western Digital, Maxtor, etc. You should notice an IDE (Integrated Drive Electronics) cable (a wide gray ribbon cable) running from the back of your current hard drive and down into the motherboard primary IDE connector. Hopefully, the CD or DVD drives are plugged in to the secondary IDE connector.

2. As you follow the cable along, you should find another white IDE pin connection that is unused (not plugged in to another drive). Now, look for a spare unused power connector (white plastic head with wires running to the power supply). Lastly, locate the empty drive bay in the case into which you'll be mounting the new hard drive. Now, look at the back of your new hard drive. You'll notice an opening into which the power connector will plug and also a set of pins onto which the IDE cable will connect.

3. Before installing your new hard drive, locate the diagram for changing the jumper setting to a slave. These are the pins which regulate how the new hard drive will be used. The three common settings are MA (Master), SL (slave) and CS (Cable Select). Assuming your current hard drive is already running as the "Master" or MA, you should ensure the plastic sheath for the pins is covering the "SL" pins, or "Slave" pins. The diagram depicts different sets of pins with a black box around them. First look on the top of your drive. If it's not there, see if your drive came with printed instructions or check the manufacturer's website. To change the jumper, you may need to have a set of tweezers handy. Use them to reposition the jumper between the four male prongs and the IDE ribbon connector. Match the settings depicted in the diagram on top of the hard drive to make sure you do this correctly. You may want to make sure your original hard drive jumper is set to a master. Chances are it already is since most hard drives come this way. You should double-check just to be sure. Once these pins are set, connect both the power and the IDE cables.

4. Now, you're ready to mount the drive in the case. Most newer desktop hard drives will fit snugly into one of the spare bays in the case. Slide the drive into the bay and then secure it in place with the screws that come with the drive.

5. Once the drive is secured with the cables already attached, it's time to power up the computer and turn it on. Leave the case off for now until you've established the drive is properly connected and accessible.

6. Once the computer starts to check memory, press the DEL key to enter the system BIOS screen (in some systems this is the Esc key or some other FN key).

7. In the BIOS, access the standard settings and set the hard drive menu to auto, then save and exit the BIOS and reboot.

8. This time, the BIOS should recognize the new drive. If for some reason the BIOS don’t acknowledge the new drive, you should double-check all the connections and the pin settings. If the BIOS have recognized the drive, you're ready for the next step.

9. Now, you're going to need to partition and format this new drive. An excellent walk-through for using FDISK is located Radified Fdisk Guide or Microsoft’s How to use the Fdisk Tool. (See also How to partition and format the hard drive). Reboot and enter Windows. Once there, go into My Computer icon and select the new drive letters and chose to format them. Whatever you do, DO NOT accidentally format or partition your existing hard drive (usually C :). Now, after a reboot, you should see the new drives ready for you to fill them up with a pile of new data.

How to optimize your computer

Everyone knows that computers can sometimes slow down over time. While not an exhaustive list of solutions to problems, this collection presents several ways to speed up a computer. These step-by-step instructions can easily be followed; even novice computer users can follow these steps. The steps are intended for Windows XP users, but users of other Windows versions can follow a similar process.

1. Defrag Your Hard Drive
Over time, the data on your hard drive gets scattered. Disk Defragmenter consolidates fragmented files and folders on your computer's hard disk, so that each occupies a single, contiguous space on the volume. As a result, your system can gain access to your files and folders and save new ones more efficiently. By consolidating your files and folders, Disk Defragmenter also consolidates the volume's free space, making it less likely that new files will be fragmented. Defragmenting your hard drive puts your data back into sequential order, making it easier for Windows to access it As a result, the performance of your computer will improve.

2. Scan Your Hard Disk
Has your computer ever crashed, making it impossible to shut it down properly? Have you ever experienced a power outage? These problems and others can cause damage to your system files. Windows provides a utility called scandisk that will automatically detect and fix much of the damage, improving your system's performance in the process.

3. Scan for Viruses
In today's computing world, you must prevent intentional intrusions into your computer and network that take the form of viruses and Trojan horses. Detecting and cleaning viruses is an excellent way to improve your system's performance. Educate yourself about viruses and how they are commonly spread. Learn the common signs of viruses: unusual messages that appear on your screen, decreased system performance, missing data, and inability to access your hard drive. If you notice any of these problems on your computer, run your virus-detection software immediately to minimize the chances of losing data.

4. Increasing the virtual memory
Virtual memory, also known as Page File memory, uses a portion of your hard disk and acts like RAM allowing more information to be used and made at one time. It stores data about programs while your computer is running, and dumps it as needs be. Open the control panel and double-click the System icon, go to the Advanced tab. By clicking the ‘Change’ button will allow you to increase your virtual memory. Look for performance and click the settings button. Go to advanced and click change. Then choose your hard disk drive from the list and choose custom size. Set the sizes accordingly to however much page file your computer uses (1024MB is best as an initial size). Once finished, press ‘Set’ and ‘OK’
You should not set your maximum size larger than double the minimum setting, otherwise too much space may be used on your hard drive leaving you nothing left.

5. Check for Spyware and Adware
Spyware is software that allows companies to monitor what websites you visit or even access your computer. Adware is software that displays advertisements. Both use system resources and slow your computer down. Detecting and removing the programs will improve system performance.

6. Using Disk Cleanup
Disk Cleanup helps free up space on your hard drive. Disk Cleanup searches your drive, and then shows you temporary files, Internet cache files, and unnecessary program files that you can safely delete. You can direct Disk Cleanup to delete some or all of those files. Uninstalling/Removing programs that you no longer use can free up space on your computer and speed up your system's performance. However, you need to uninstall the programs properly to see much improvement; deleting them is not enough. And make sure you know what your deleting coz if you don’t it will give you much more problem at the end.

7. Adjust Visual Effects for Better Performance
Windows XP provides a number of interesting visual effects like animated windows and fading menus. These effects, however, can slow down your computer. If you like the style of the old Windows Classic themes, you should follow this step to enable your computer to be faster. Sure it’ll looks like an older version of windows, but at least your computer will improve its performance. Going to Control Panel, then System then click Advanced tab. Look for performance and click the settings button. In Visual Effects tab select the option to “Adjust for best performance” and press apply.

8. Stop Programs from starting on Windows boot
One way you can speed up your computer is to prevent programs from launching themselves at start-up. Not only do the unwanted programs delay the start of Windows, they also continue to slow down your computer since they use system resources.

How to Partition and Format Hard drive

What is FDISK ?

FDISK (FDISK stands for "fixed disk") is a free DOS and Windows utility that can create and destroy partitions. Although FDISK does not come on the standard boot disk that comes with Windows 98, you can create a win 98 boot disk by going into the Control Panel, choosing Add/Remove programs, and selecting to create a boot disk. This boot disk will include "fdisk.exe". If you decide to use FDISK, you should learn more about how to use this utility. Before you use FDISK, make sure you've backed up your data. Resizing or deleting a partition from FDISK makes your computer forget where anything on your hard drive is, rendering any data unrecoverable.

Use FDISK

To run FDISK, jump to DOS or boot your computer with the bootable disk in the floppy or CD-ROM drive and type "fdisk" at the command line prompt a letter(usually A:). The first FDISK screen gives you the following menu options:
1. Create Dos Partition or Logical Drive
2. Set Active Partition
3. Delete Partitions or Logical DOS Drives
4. Display Partition Information
5. Change current fixed drive. (In case you have two or more HDDs)
Partition information

You need to know the following facts when partitioning your drive.
1. Primary partitions are the only ones that are bootable. They're always the C: drive when active. Normally you can only have one.
2. Extended partitions are needed when you want more than one partition. You can only have one Extended partition.
3. Logical Drives come into the Extended partition. They are handy since you know that you can only have one Primary and one Extended so you can get more than only two partitions. They would be your D:, E:, etc. drives.

Hard Drive Partitioning and Formatting Procedure

This procedure describes how to set up a new, empty hard disk so that it is ready for an operating system to be installed on it. This process includes partitioning and formatting and results in a bootable hard disk. The procedure covers configuring the hard disk as a single large partition or splitting it into multiple, smaller partitions.

Procedure Steps:
1. Plan Partitions: Decide how you want to partition your hard disk. In particular, for large hard disks, decide if you want to set up your hard disk with a single large FAT32 partition, or several smaller FAT16 partitions. (You can of course mix these). I provide instructions for doing either of these, but cannot tell you how to set up your system. You must decide based on what makes sense for you. Most people today prefer to set up a new system using a single FAT32 partition.
2. Run FDISK.EXE: From the command prompt, enter the command "fdisk". If you have a disk large enough to guarantee the use of FAT32, you will be asked if you want to enable "large disk support". Enter "Y” if you want to enable FAT32 or “N” if you do not want to enable FAT32. If you do enable this, any partitions over 500 MB that you create will be FAT32. Note that if you do not enable FAT32, you will not be able to put your entire hard disk into one partition if it is greater than 2 GB in size.

If you decided to place your entire hard disk into a single partition, then follow this step:

3. Partition Hard Disk (Single Partition): Follow these steps to set up your hard disk:
A. Select from the FDISK menu "1. Create DOS partition or Logical DOS Drive".
B. Select "1. Create Primary DOS Partition". FDISK will verify drive integrity. Then it will ask if you want to use the maximum available size of the disk for the primary partition and set it active. Enter "Y". The system will allocate the whole disk to the partition, and that's that.
C. Select menu "2. To Set Active Partition. Select partition "1. FDISK will report that it has set partition 1 active.
D. Press {Esc} to exit FDISK.

If instead you want to set up your hard disk with multiple partitions, follow this step. In order to make the process easier to follow. In my example, a 4000 MB hard disk is being partitioned into four partitions of 1500 MB, 1000 MB, 800 MB and 700 MB respectively:

4. Partition Hard Disk (Multiple Partitions): Follow these steps to set up your hard disk:
A. Select from the FDISK menu "1. Create DOS partition or Logical DOS Drive".
B. Select "1. Create Primary DOS Partition". FDISK will verify drive integrity. Then it will ask if you want to use the maximum available size of the disk for the primary partition and set it active. Enter "N". The system will show the size of the entire disk in MB.
C. Enter the size of the primary partition. In our example, this would mean entering "1500". The system will tell you that it has created the primary partition, and will assign it the drive letter "C:".
D. Press {Esc} to return to the FDISK menu.
Select "2. Set active partition". Select partition 1. FDISK will report that it has set partition 1 active.
E. Press {Esc} to return to the FDISK menu.
F. Select from the FDISK menu "1. Create DOS partition or Logical DOS Drive".
G. Select "2. Create Extended DOS Partition".
H. When prompted, press {Enter} to select the entire remaining area of the disk for the extended DOS partition. FDISK will report that it has created the extended DOS partition.
I. Press {Esc}. FDISK will automatically prompt you to create your first logical DOS volume within the extended DOS partition.
J. Enter the size of the first logical partition (the second partition overall). In our example you would enter "1000". FDISK will create the partition, label it "D:", and then say "Logical DOS Drive created, drive letters changed or added". Don't touch anything, just wait, and FDISK will prompt you for the next volume.
K. Repeat the previous step for the remaining partitions (in our example there would be two more partitions to create, the 800 MB and 700 MB ones). When all of the partitions have been created, FDISK will report "All available space in the Extended DOS Partition is assigned to logical drives".
L. Press {Esc} to exit FDISK.

Continue with the procedure:
5. Reboot: Reboot the system using either the Reset button or the ({Ctrl}+{Alt}+{Delete}). Make sure the floppy disk or a bootable disc is in its drive, since you still need it. Note that you may get "Invalid media type reading drive C" errors while rebooting. This is normal at this stage.
6. Format Primary Partition: From the "A:" DOS prompt, issue the following command: "format c:/s/c". Do not forget the "/s", as this is what will make your C: drive bootable. You will get a "scary" warning message such as "WARNING, ALL DATA ON NON-REMOVABLE DISK DRIVE C: WILL BE LOST. Proceed with Format (Y/N)?". Since of course there is no data presently on drive C:, just enter "Y" and the system will format the hard disk. The program will show you its progress as it formats and at the end will prompt you for a volume label. Enter one if you wish.
7. Format Additional Partitions (if necessary): If you set up multiple partitions, format the additional partitions now. This is done in almost the same way as formatting the primary DOS partition, except that you leave off the "/s". So normally you would be entering "format d:", "format e:" and so on, until all the partitions have been formatted. The prompts should be the same as in the preceding step.

Warning: If you have a second hard disk in the system and it has a primary DOS partition, that partition is probably assigned D: because DOS assigns letters to all primary partitions before any logical partitions. Be careful of what you format.

8. Remove Boot Floppy or CD: Eject the boot floppy or Cd. Reboot the system using either the Reset button or {Ctrl}+{Alt}+{Delete}. The system should boot up from the hard disk this time and you’re done. Hopefully you get something in the procedures that I’ve gave you. And lastly, if you don’t really sure what you’re doing, consult a computer technician.

PC Boot Problems

Beep Codes

The first thing that you’re computer will perform is POST (Power On Self Test), it tests the computers hardware insuring that it meets the necessary system requirements and that all hardware is working properly before starting the boot process. It later continues with additional tests (such as the memory test that you see printed on the screen) as the boot process is proceeding. If the computer passes the POST the computer will have a single beep (other computer BIOS manufacturers it may beep twice) as the computer starts and the computer will continue to start normally. However, if the computer fails the POST, the computer will either not beep at all or will generate a beep code, which tells the user the source of the problem.

What is Beep Codes?
Beep codes are the beeps you hear from the PC speaker when you turn on your computer. They are your computer’s way of letting you know what’s going on when there is no video signal or a bad memory or something rather serious goes wrong that your computer will start beeping. These codes are programmed into the BIOS of the PC. There is no official standard for these codes due to the many brands of BIOS there are on motherboards.

Pc Boot problems: (beep codes)

IBM BIOS
No Beeps - No Power, Loose Card, or Short.
1 Short Beep - Normal POST, computer is ok.
2 Short Beep - POST error, review screen for error code.
Continuous Beep - No Power, Loose Card, or Short.
Repeating Short Beep - No Power, Loose Card, or Short.
One Long and one Short Beep - Motherboard issue.
One Long and Two Short Beeps - Video (Mono/CGA Display Circuitry) issue.
One Long and Three Short Beeps - Video (EGA) Display Circuitry.
Three Long Beeps - Keyboard / Keyboard card error.
One Beep, Blank or Incorrect Display - Video Display Circuitry.

AMI BIOS
1 short - DRAM refresh failure
2 short - Parity circuit failure
3 short - Base 64K RAM failure
4 short - System timer failure
5 short - Process failure
6 short - Keyboard controller Gate A20 error
7 short - Virtual mode exception error
8 short - Display memory Read/Write test failure
9 short - ROM BIOS checksum failure
10 short - CMOS shutdown Read/Write error
11 short - Cache Memory error
1 long, 3 short - Conventional/Extended memory failure
1 long, 8 short - Display/Retrace test failed

AWARD AND PHOENIX BIOS
1 short beep - Normal
2 short beeps - CMOS error
1 long and 1 short beep - RAM error
1 long and 2 short beeps - Video card error
1 long and 3 short beeps - Keyboard error
1 long and 9 short beeps - ROM error
Long continuous beeps - RAM not installed correctly
Short continuous beeps - Bad power supply or over heating

How To Perform Computer Surgery

Some PC problems can be solved only by rolling up your sleeves, popping off the PC's cover, and getting your hands on the insides. Does replacing an expansion card, removing drive or setting motherboard jumpers sound too complicated? It isn't. Simply follow these steps lads:

1. Find the right workspace. Good light, nice air and plenty of room are essential. Working in tight spaces or under your desk will benefit only your local repair shop.

2. Avoid unexpected charges. Unplug the computer. Even when powered off, some PCs deliver current to the motherboard, which can send a damaging shock to both you and your PC. Always ground yourself; Electrostatic charges can destroy your device. Use a grounding strap or touch an unpainted, metal portion of the chassis before unplugging the PC and handling hardware components.

3. Remove the cover. Some PCs have covers that pop off easily without tools; others require a small Phillips screwdriver or a six-sided torque driver. Place screws (and any other hardware you remove) in a cup or box.

4. Clear the path. If a rat's nest of cables and power cords hinders your way in to the interior of the case, remove them first. Labeling each cord and connector will save you time during reassembly.

5. Removing or replacing an expansion card. Start by removing the bracket screw that holds the card in the chassis. Handle the card on its edges only; avoid direct contact with any chips or circuitry. Apply even pressure across the length of the card when inserting or removing it, and make sure you don't bend the motherboard.

6. Change a DIP switch or jumper. If you don't have a manual that locates the switch or jumper on the motherboard and describes how to set it, don't guess. A mistake can fry your motherboard. And be careful with jumper pins they can bend easily.

7. Adding or removing a hard disk drive. Prepare the drive first: Set any jumpers or switches on your hard drive to their proper master or slave settings before sliding the drive into a hard-to-reach drive bay. Sometimes it's helpful to use a small piece of compressed foam or cardboard to line up the drive's screw holes with those in its bay.

8. Check your connections. Just before replacing the machines cover, recheck all your cables and connections one last time. Power connectors sometimes require a stiff push to seat properly.

9. And lastly. Enjoy using your computer whether surfing on the net or playing computer games day and night.

How To Assemble A Personal Computer

Tools and equipment
You won’t need many tools to assemble your computer, in fact the only one you must have is the screwdriver and an anti-static wristband (very useful), but if you can get most of the following together, you’ll find things go a little easier.

Basic tools
Before you begin building or refitting a computer, you will need some basic tools:
2 phillips-head (cross-shaped) screwdriver
Needlenose pliers
Anti-static Wrist Strap
A large level working space

Optional, but useful tools
Some other tools and equipment can come in handy as well, such as:
Grounding Mat or anti-static carpet
Spring action parts grabber.
Electrical tape
Flashlight
A second, working computer to swap parts, look for tips, ask for help online, download drivers and patches, etc. - very useful
A can of compressed air - useful when working with older parts that have collected dust. A better alternative but also more costly, is a vacuum cleaner designed for cleaning electronics.
If you do not have access to an anti-static mat or wrist-band, working on a table rubber or leather-soled shoes can help prevent static charges obtained from walking around, although if you move your hands upon the ground, say picking up a dropped screw, your static charge WILL stay with you until you touch something metal. Therefore, after doing anything that might have potentially caused you to pick up a static charge, ground yourself on an unpainted surface of the computer case before touching anything electronic. Static charge should always be kept on mind while installing in the components as it may severely damage the delicate parts of the computer.

Preparation
Proper preparation is the key to a successful build. Before you begin, make sure you have all the tools you will need, and secure a clear, well-lit workspace. Gather all the components you’ll be using and unpack them one at a time, verifying that everything that is supposed to be there is actually present. At this point you should leave the parts themselves in their protective anti-static bags, and assemble all the accompanying manuals. Now I know you want to get started, but trust me, read the manuals, check the diagrams, make sure you understand where each part goes and how it attaches. If there is anything you don’t understand, now is the time to do a little extra internet research or call the manufacturer with your questions.
Find a dry, well-ventilated place to do your work. You should have plenty of light to see your components with, and if possible, you should choose an area without carpet on the floor, as carpet tends to generate a lot of static, and this can be ameliorated by choosing a nonconductive floor surface. An unfurnished basement is a good work location.

Safety precautions
Static electricity is the biggest danger to the expensive parts you are about assemble, even a tiny shock, much too small for you to feel, can damage or ruin the delicate electronic traces, many times smaller than a human hair, that make up your CPU, RAM and other chips. It’s important to use your anti-static wrist strap. Once you have the power supply installed in the case, clip the end of the wrist strap to the outside of the power supply. (Never plug your computer in while you are connected to it by a wrist strap.) This will ensure that you, the case and the power supply are all connected to a common ground, in other words there will be no inequality of charge that will allow a spark to jump from you to the case. It’s also helpful to have an antistatic mat to set the case and other components on.
Nobody but you is at fault if you shock your components with static electricity. Make sure that you take the precautions in the previous paragraph to ground yourself from static electricity. (Note: if you really must work on a computer and haven't got proper anti-static equipment, it is usually OK if you make sure that you don't move about much; are not wearing any static-prone clothing; handle components by the edges; and regularly (once a minute or so), touch a grounded object.). The case metal of your PC's power supply will usually be a suitable grounded object. As noted above, touch it every few minutes while you are working on your PC if you haven’t got a wrist strap.
Turn off your computer and switch off your Power Supply at the wall before installing or removing any components - if power is flowing to components as they are installed or removed, they can be seriously damaged. In order to have a computer earthed, you need it plugged in at the wall but turned off at the power supply and at the wall.
Never cut the grounding pin off your power cord. This "safety ground" stands between you and potentially lethal voltages inside the power supply.
Be wary of sharp edges! Many lower-end PC cases have sharp, unfinished edges. This is especially so on interior surfaces, and where the case has been cut or punched-out. Use care and take your time to avoid cutting your hands.If your case has this problem, a little time with some sandpaper before you begin construction can spare you a lot of pain.
Dismantling discrete electronic components such as your Power Supply or Monitor is dangerous. They contain high voltage capacitors, which can cause a severe electric shock if you touch them. These hold a charge even when the unit is not plugged in and are capable of delivering a fatal shock.

Construction
Start by putting your case down on your work surface, with the case door facing up, and open the case.

Motherboard
Find the motherboard standoffs that should have come with the case. They are screws, usually brass, with large hexagonal heads that are tapped so you can fasten screws into the top.
Remove the I/O Shield from the back of the case where the ports on the back of the motherboard will fit, and put in the I/O Shield that came with your motherboard. There may be small metal tabs on the inside of this face plate, if so you may have to adjust them to accommodate the ports on the back of the motherboard.
Some case styles make it difficult to install the motherboard or the CPU with the power supply installed. If the power supply is in your way, take it out and set it aside (we'll put it back in later).
Now locate the screw holes on your motherboard and find the corresponding holes on the motherboard plate (or tray) in the case. Put a standoff in each of these holes on the tray and position the motherboard so that you can see the holes in the top of the standoffs through the screw holes in the motherboard.
Now is the time to make sure the ports on the motherboard are mating with the backplate you just installed, and make any necessary adjustments. The small metal tabs are intended to make contact with the metal parts of the connections on the back of the motherboard and ground them, but you may have to bend these tabs a bit to get the ports all properly mounted, this is where those needlenose pliers may come in handy.
If you have trouble lining up the screw holes, double check that you have the standoffs in the proper holes on the tray. With lower quality cases there are sometimes alignment problems and you may have to forgo one or two screws. If this is the case, make sure you remove the corresponding standoffs.
Now fasten a screw through each of the motherboard screw holes into the standoffs underneath. These screws should be snug but not tight, there is no reason to torque down on them, hand tight is fine, otherwise you can damage the motherboard.
There, the motherboard is in, now it's time to plug the other components.

CPU

An example of a CPU socket, Socket A
Installing the CPU, and the CPU’s heatsink and fan, are by far the most difficult steps you’ll have to complete during your build. Here, more than anywhere else, it will pay to read the instructions carefully, look at the parts, study the diagrams that came with your CPU and/or third party cooling solution, and make sure you thoroughly understand what you are going to do before you try to do it. During the process, if anything does not seem to fit or make sense, put the parts down and look things over carefully before you proceed. Some operations, especially installing the heatsink/fan combination, can require pretty firm pressure, so don’t be afraid to push a little harder if you’re sure everything is set up correctly.
The details of the installation process differ in slight but important ways for each manufacturer’s processors, and even within a manufacturers product line. Therefore, for these details, you should rely on the instructions that are provided with the CPU.
The two things that go wrong the most often and most expensively (minimum of a killed CPU, sometimes more) in building one's own computer are both related to the CPU and its cooler:
Switching the computer on "just to see if it works" before adding any CPU cooling unit. Without cooling, CPUs heat up at extreme rates (a CPU heats up anywhere between ten times and a thousand times as fast as a cooking area on your stove!) By the time you see the first display on the screen, your CPU will already be severely overheating and might be damaged beyond repair.
Mounting the CPU cooler improperly. Read the instructions that came with your CPU and cooler very carefully and ensure you are using all components in the correct order and correct place.
If you buy a third party cooling solution for your CPU make sure you get one that is compatible with the CPU you have. Most brands come with multiple mounting brackets that will suit many different chipsets, but it's best to check for compatibility just in case.
If using thermal paste, apply it only to the CPU die (the square piece of silicon in the middle of the CPU) and do so sparingly -- most modern CPUs take no more than a grain of rice sized dab of thermal paste. Some people do like to wipe some onto the heatsink's surface and then wipe it smoothly off so that bits of it may get into tiny holes for better heat transfer. If using a thermal pad supplied with your cooler, make sure you remove any protective tape from the die just before installing and do not get it dirty - and do not combine thermal pads with thermal paste, it's either one or the other. Then, check that you install the cooler in the right orientation and that you set it flat on the CPU die without exerting undue pressure on any edges or corners - the latter can make small pieces of the die break off, killing the CPU.
One option you may consider, before installing the heatsink, is to "lap" the heatsink, which means to smooth out the bottom surface. To do this, you will need a very flat surface; a piece of thick window glass will work. Fasten your sandpaper on the flat surface, invert the heatsink on the sandpaper and sand in small circles, applying minimum pressure. Check frequently and when you see a uniform pattern of scratches, switch to finer grained sandpaper (the numbers go up as the sandpaper is finer, so something such as 220 is coarse while 2000 will be very fine.) Remember that you are not trying to remove any material, just polish out surface irregularities. If you get it right, you should have a surface which feels completely smooth to the touch (but don’t touch it, the oil in your fingers can cause corrosion of the fresh surface) with a mirror finish. Some companies producing heatsinks lap the surface themselves, so if the surface already looks like a perfect mirror, leave it alone. A lapped heatsink is more effective as it will have better surface contact with the chip.
Tighten the cooler using only the specified holding devices - if you did everything right, they will fit. If they don't fit, check your setup - most likely something is wrong. After mounting the cooler, connect any power cables for the fan that is attached onto the cooler.
As an aside to the instructions above, it has been my personal experience that fitting the CPU and heat sink is best done on a supportive surface (a telephone directory on a table in my case) prior to installation, to avoid excessive flexing of the motherboard.
If you've got the CPU and its cooler installed, and the motherboard in the case, you’re over the hump, there just a few more easy pieces to go before that momentous first power-up.

MEMORY SLOTS
Next, you will need to install your RAM (random access memory). Find the RAM slots on your motherboard; they will look something like the picture above. To install the RAM modules, first push on the levers (white plastic in the picture) on either side of the DIMM socket, so that they move to the sides. Do not force them, they should move fairly easily.
Put the RAM module in the socket. Line up the notch in the center of the module with the small bump in the center of the RAM socket, making sure to insert it the right way. Push down on the module until both levers move up into the notches on the sides of the module. There should be a small "snap" when the module is fully seated. Although this does require a fair bit of force, don't over do it or you may break the RAM module.
Take a good look at your seated RAM, if one side seems to be higher than the other, odds are it's improperly seated - take it out and try again. As you handle the RAM, try not to touch the copper stripes you can see along the bottom edge, as doing so is the best way to damage the part.
Start adding RAM at the slot labeled "Bank 0" or "DIMM 1". If you don't have a stick in "Bank 0" or "DIMM 1" the system will think there is no RAM and won't boot.
On newer motherboards with 4 slots, you'll see alternating colours. For example, slot 1 is blue, slot 2 is black, slot 3 is blue, slot 4 is black.
If you were to put 1 gigabyte of RAM in your PC, it's best to use dual channel 512MBx2 sticks. Put the first 512MB stick in slot 1, and put the 2nd stick in slot 3 (the two slots that are blue) - leaving slot 2 empty. This will give you better performance, vs. putting 1GB in slot 1, or two 512MB sticks in slot 1 and 2.

Power supply
Installing your power supply is pretty straightforward, if it came with your case it was preinstalled and if you took it out earlier to get the motherboard in, now is the time to put it back. Otherwise a few moments of screwdriver work will get the job done. Generally there will be a bracket on the top of the case where the power supply is mounted and a few screws used to fix it in place. Some cases place the PS differently, see the documentation that came with yours.
Some power supplies come with modular cables, so you can plug in only those you’ll be using, now is a good time to figure out what you’ll need and plug them in. Other power supplies have all the cables hardwired in, you’ll want to separate out the ones you’ll need and neatly coil the remainder somewhere out of the way.
If your power supply has a switch to select 115v or 220v make sure it is set properly, this is important. Many newer power supplies can automatically select and don’t have such a switch.
Once you get the power supply installed you should plug the main power, a 20 or 24 pin plug, into the motherboard. There may also be an additional four or eight pin power lead on the motherboard that needs to be plugged in, this is usually located near the processor socket. Make sure you check the motherboard documentation carefully for the location of the power sockets.

Video card
If your motherboard has a built-in video adapter you want to use, skip this section.
If you have an AGP video card: Install the video card into the AGP socket. This is always the top expansion slot near the back of the computer. AGP slots are often brown, but can also be strange colours such as fluorescent green. Check the motherboard for levers (or similar devices) that are part of the AGP slot to help hold the card in place. These must be retracted before insertion of the card. Check the motherboard's manual for information on how to use these devices (if your motherboard has one.) Push the card into the socket (AGP slots are often pretty tight, don't be afraid to push it until it's well inserted), then screw it in at the top of the metal bracket. If it has a power connector, connect it to a 4-pin molex connector. If it has a pass through, do not connect it to a hard drive.
If you have a PCI Express video card, install it the same way as an AGP video card, however the slot where it goes looks a little different having an extra spot on the slot as opposed to the 2 slot parts on an AGP slot. PCI Express slots used for video cards are commonly 16x as opposed to AGP 8x.
When your card is properly installed the line formed by the top of the card will be exactly parallel to the motherboard, if one side seems to be higher than the other, chances are that it's not fully inserted, press a little harder on the high side or pull it out and try again.

Installing drive jumpers
If you are using SATA drives there is no need to adjust jumpers -- you can skip this section.
Before you install IDE/ATA (PATA) drives, you will need to set the drives jumpers. Each IDE/ATA channel can handle two drives, a master and a slave. Consult your drive's instructions on how to set the jumpers. The jumper configurations are usually either printed on the back, or on the top of the drive. Drives can be configured in 2 ways: Drive Select or Cable Select.
"Cable select": Use this if you have 80-pin cables. Cable select automatically assigns slave/master based on the plug on the IDE cable the drive is plugged into. Put the jumper on CS.
"Drive select": If you are using a 40 pin cable, you must use "drive select". Master/slave status is determined by the jumper. In this mode, configure the drive on the end connector the master, and drive connected to the middle connector the slave. If the IDE channel has only one drive, check your motherboard documentation for the appropriate setting, which is usually master.
Note that Drive Select will always work, while Cable Select will only work if you have the proper cable.

Installing drives
Next install the hard drive and optical drives.
How a drive is physically installed will depend on the case.
When using an IDE cable, plug the two connectors that are closer together into the 2 drives, and the third to the controller or motherboard. The connector furthest from the board should be attached to the drive set as Master. Make sure the drive that you will install your OS on is the primary master. This is the master drive on the Primary IDE bus which is usually the IDE 40 pin port on the motherboard labeled “Primary” or “IDE 1”..
Note: IDE connectors are keyed, so it should be impossible to insert them backwards. However, it doesn't require very much force to do this and it can destroy your motherboard . Look carefully at the drive and the cable connection before you try to connect them. You should see a "missing" pin on the drive, and a corresponding blocked socket on the connector. If you break a pin on the drive, you will probably have a worthless drive.
Note: most parallel IDE cables have a colored stripe down one side. That coloured stripe signifies "pin 1" - and usually will line up next to the molex power connection on your drive. Use this rule of thumb if your connectors aren't keyed.
Next, plug a 4 pin molex power connector into each hard drive and optical drive. If you are installing the power connector to a SATA drive, some drives have the option of using either the SATA power connector (a flat about 1" wide connector) or the standard molex connector; use one or the other, not both. Connecting both can break your hard drive. For better data transfer, you can purchase heat-protected high-end data cables at your nearest electronics store.

Floppy Disk Drive Cable
If you install a floppy disk drive, the cable is very similar to the IDE cable, but with fewer wires, and a strange little twist in the middle. Floppy drives do not have master/slave configurations. The floppy disk connector is not usually keyed, making it all too easy to plug it in the wrong way! One wire in the IDE cable will be colored differently: this is pin 1. There is usually some indication on the floppy drive as to which side this is. The power plug for a floppy is 4 pins in a line, but rather smaller than the standard hard drive power connector. Plug the end of the cable with the twist into the floppy drive ("drive A:"). Plug the other end of the floppy ribbon cable into the motherboard. If you install a second floppy drives, plug the middle connector into "drive B:". The twist between drive A: (on the end) and drive B (in the middle) helps the computer distinguish between them.

Other connections
In order to turn the computer on, you’ll need to connect the power button and while you're at it, you might as well do the reset buttons and front panel lights as well. There will be a set of pins, usually near the front of the motherboard to which you will attach the cables that should have been supplied with the motherboard. (Sometimes there are cables already connected to the case, use them if they are there). These will plug into the front of the case. The plugs in the front of the case will be labeled. The pins on the motherboard may be labeled as well, but they can be difficult to read because the print is very small. The documentation that came with your case and motherboard should tell where these connectors are. The front panel LEDs are polarized: usually the positive wire is white.
In addition, you can connect any case-specific ports if they are supported by the motherboard. Many cases have front mounted USB, firewire and/or sound ports.

Prepare for power up
Some people will put power to a system several times during assembly and for experienced builders this may serve some purpose. For first timers though, it’s best to assemble a minimal complete system before powering up. Minimal because that way there are comparatively few potential sources of trouble, complete so that you can test everything at once and because the fewer times you have to put power to an open machine, the better..
If you’ve been working along with us you should now have such a minimal system put together. Briefly this includes a case with a motherboard in it, a processor (and its cooling unit) and some RAM plugged into the motherboard, hard and floppy drives installed, and some kind of video available. If your motherboard has built-in video, you might want to use that for this first try, even if you are going to install a video card later.
For this test, you’ll want to have the computer open, so that you can see all of the fans, and you’ll need to connect a monitor and a keyboard and a mouse (OK, you don’t really need the mouse . . .)

Power up
The moment of truth now approaches, time to take a deep breath, exhale slowly, then take a moment to check one more time that everything is as it should be. Make sure you've removed your wrist strap, turn on the monitor, then press the power button, and observe the inside of the open machine. (Do not touch any part of the inside of the machine while it is powered up – you will NOT die but your computer may break.) The first thing to look for is that the CPU cooler fan spins up, if it does not, cut the power immediately. This fan should start up right away; something is wrong if it doesn’t and your CPU is in danger of overheating so stop now and troubleshoot.
NOTE: If you have a Gigabyte brand motherboard, the CPU fan may twitch and stop turning. Wait 10-15 seconds and it should start. If it doesn't there is a problem and you should immediately cut power as stated above. Other fans such as case fans should turn on and spin.
If the CPU fan spins up, check that all the other fans that should be spinning – case fans and fans on the power supply and video card (if installed) are also spinning. Some of these fans may not spin up until a temperature threshold is passed, check your documentation if anything is not spinning.
If the fans spin, you can turn your attention to the monitor, what you are hoping to see is the motherboard’s splashscreen, usually featuring the manufacturer’s logo. If you see this, take a moment to bask in the glow, you’ve built a computer!
If this happy event does not occur, if smoke appears, or if the computer doesn't do anything, unplug the power cord immediately and check the steps above to make sure you haven't missed anything. Give special attention to the cables and power connections. If the computer does appear to come on, but, you hear beeps, listen carefully to the beeps, turn the computer off, and refer to your motherboard's manual for the meaning of the beeps. Some boards have an optional diagnostic device, usually a collection of LEDs, which when properly plugged in will inform you of the nature of the problem. Instructions for installing this as well as the meaning of its display should be in the manual for the motherboard. If the computer turns on but the only thing that comes on is your power supply, turn it off. This probably means something is shorted, and leaving it on could damage the parts.
If all is well it's time to turn the computer off, and close it up. Then you may want to turn it on again and set certain options in the Computer's BIOS (usually by pressing 'F1' or 'Del' a few seconds after boot.) These options will be explained in the motherboard manual. In general, the default options are OK, but you may wish to set the computer's hardware clock to the correct time and date. The BIOS is also where you determine the default boot order of the system, typically Floppy, then CD-ROM, then Hard Disc.
If you want a further quick test, before you install an operating system, you may find a bootable CD-ROM such as windowsXP extremely useful.